Luna & Curious Guide to...Copenhagen
Luna & Curious’ Polly George and Rheanna Lingham recently visited Copenhagen for its Fashion Week. We were lucky to have recommendations from our friends of shops, restaurants and things to see. We wanted to pass these on to you too and add our own special finds. This is in no way exhaustive, as we were there for work we did spend rather a lot of time at trade shows, so there are probably many more things to see and do.
The first thing I would say about visiting Copenhagen is walk everywhere. The metro and buses are easy to use and the metro stations have some great architecture, concrete futurism, a bit like Westminster on the Jubilee line. However the city is quite small, its not like being in London, so you really get the feel of the city by pounding the streets. Alternatively you can cycle, all the roads are designed with large cycle lines, all with their own lights, don;t slip into London ways and scoot through on the red light, this is not done in Copenhagen.
Vesterbro is a district in the city that feels a little bit like being in East London, t has some great independent shops and you get the feeling that there is a strong creative community based there. After a 3.30am start for our flight and a trade show later, Polly and I were very ready for our lunch and went into Granola on Værnedamsvej. A great restaurant, warm cosy and local. This is when we first started a problem that we encountered the whole time we were away, Polly and I always order the same thing, this became such a joke that we refused to tell each other what we were having until the waiter arrived, and it was still the same. We both had Boeuf Bourguignon, which was sensational. Also I had the best banana milkshake I have ever had. I think the breakfast would be great here too.
On the same street are some good shops, Playtype, Dora. Just off is Jerome Vintage, a very selected vintage store, true vintage (not the jam-packed second hand rubbish that have coined the term.) Although we didn’t visit in the main shopping area Time’s Up is also reputed to be a good vintage store.
Nearby is Gammel Kongevej, which has some very good independent stores. In particular Black, this was definitely Polly’s favourite store we visited. Beautiful display, fantastically edited, kind friendly staff and smelt amazing.
Stroget & Surrounding Streets
Stroget is Copenhagen’s Regent Street, but pleasant, no pushing or anger, with great shops. Illum Bolighus is a very good interiors store, however the problem with the recent Scandi design trend, is that we can get the look in many stores in London, so it doesn’t feel like anything new. Lots of Hay, Ferm Living, Normann Copenhagen, all things you can get in Shoreditch’s own SCP. Having said that, it is still worth visiting the main Hay shop, as it is really beautifully presented store, check out where they have married the new and old timber on the staircase.
One of our most important port of calls was Mads Norgaard, the iconic Danish clothing brand that we stock in the store. During our time in Copenhagen, we got the impression that Mads Norgaard is intrinsically Copenhagen, men, women and children were bedecked in the clothing everywhere we looked, yet its understated classic style with the notorious stripe is beyond fashion pretensions. Its part of everyday Copenhagen life. Even the catwalk show embraced this concept, using street casting, showing off Copenhagen’s youth.
Have a wander around the offshoot streets as some great independents too. Le Fix has got to be the most welcoming, laid back store possible. The Norgaard family influence also continues with Cafe Europa, a continental cafe that is a good lunch stop.
Right near our hotel upon Gothersgade was the Stine Goya shop, a pink and gold shimmering shrine to a beautiful label. Also on this street is Pastis, where Polly and I chose the same, steak frites, and it was very good. We also had breakfast at Atelier September, which could quite possibly be the most Instagram friendly place ever, lots of marble tops, avocado on toast, coffee and orange juice in jam jars.
Normann Copenhagen is worth a visit in Triangles, Osterbro. Particularly impressed with the spacious downstairs that houses the menswear & womenswear.
Keramik & Glasvaerkstedet is a must see, with a similar background as Luna & Curious, four designer/makers have come together to set up shop and sell their own wares. In fact Rebecca Lundberg, studied at CSM with our very own Kaoru Parry. They also have the tidiest ceramic studio we have ever seen.
Whilst in the area you will also see the beautiful Nyboder houses, built for the naval families, the orange is fantastic as well as the hand rendered street names.
Close by is the Marble Church which grey solemnity still enables it to be majestic.
Eating out in Copenhagen is not cheap, but the food is fantastic, we never ever had a bad meal. Here is a selection of the places we ate…
Kalaset: A cheap eatery that reminded us of old Brick Lane, when odd ramshackle restaurants existed.
Kul: So cool its called Kul and the wi-fi password was Super Kul. This place is very trendy, set in the meat packing district, which houses many cool places to eat, yet despite this, this restaurant is not pretentious, fantastic food, unbelievably good waiting staff. We had cocktails over the road in Mother, also a pizza restaurant ( think Franco Manca).
The highlight for me was Botanisk Have, the botanical gardens. I could have stayed there all day, try and go around lunchtime when the cactus and orchid houses are open, alas we were too early so all I could do was peer through the windows.
We stayed at the Generator Hostel, that was super cheap and perfectly comfortable, best of all right in the heart of the city.
Places we didn’t go to eat and drink but were recommended
Written by Rheanna Lingham